34 posts Posts by julie

elijah’s red balloon birthday party

We are heading briefly back to Paris today in honor of this little guy…

That’s right, our little E is one year old today!

Usually I like to celebrate special days quietly, with just a few close friends. And when you move around a lot, it can be hard to gather even your really close people for those days, hence my history of semi-untraditional celebrations. With Elijah’s first birthday coming up, though, I found myself really wanting to do something special to mark the milestones of this past year. Since my sister the DIY queen was planning to visit in September, we thought it’d be fun to enlist her help in throwing an actual kids’ birthday party and inviting some of our Beijing friends who have kids close to E’s age.

Becca and I spent some time brainstorming what we could do in Beijing, given that we aren’t too familiar with what resources are available here. We also didn’t know whether the shipment of all my stuff would arrive before or after the party, so we needed to be flexible and creative in terms of supplies.

After tossing around some ideas, we decided to base the party theme on the classic French film, The Red Balloon. It’s a short film, with barely any dialogue, about a little boy in Paris who finds a red balloon that follows him around. He gets made fun of, excluded by various people, and even shunned for his balloon, but he never lets it go. It’s a simple, poignant story about childhood that can be appreciated on various levels. Plus, France has always been special to my husband and me (our wedding was inspired by another French children’s story), and we were glad to be able to share it with E earlier this year.

For the party, Becca did an amazing job capturing the spirit of a child’s imagination. (I knew I could count on her!) She created an invitation that was simple but fun and clever.

The childlike outlines on the invitation then served as inspiration for Becca’s wall sketches with black tape à la Harold and the Purple Crayon. This actually worked out really well, since we had a whole empty apartment at her disposal. (My stuff actually did arrive just before the party, so we were able to access a few more supplies in the end yet still work with a pretty much blank canvas of space.) You can read more about Becca’s creative process here.

For food, we decided a birthday brunch would fit perfectly in terms of baby schedules as well as the Parisian red balloon theme. So we put together a French-inspired menu…

(Click through links for recipes.)

Mimosas: We had a small little DIY mimosa bar with sparkling wine and orange, pink grapefruit, and pomegranate juice.

Vietnamese Coffee: I set up some French presses with a thermos of hot water and some condensed milk. I also set out my Earl Gray French Blue tea from Mariage Freres, as well as some Chinese jasmine, in case anyone preferred tea.

Quiches: These were the main dishes, and I ended up making three different kinds — a classic quiche lorraine, a broccoli quiche, and an onion tart. The broccoli quiche is actually a favorite of mine. It’s easy (especially if you buy a premade crust) and is always a big hit with guests. I especially like it with sharp cheddar. Sometimes I will make double and freeze the cooked broccoli and the grated cheese separately, so that I can put together a last-minute brunch just by mixing in the egg filling. I would’ve gladly bought premade frozen pie crusts this time, but I wasn’t able to find any (and when I did, it was ridiculously expensive), so I ended up making the crusts for these quiches. There’s a related story to that, so I’ll save the recipe for another post.

French Toast: This was the other main dish and another favorite of mine. I’ve made Talida‘s raspberry baked French toast many a time, and it also is a hit with guests. Truth be told, I make it even when nobody’s coming over. :) I love the caramelized bottom, as well as the aroma of the raspberries after they bake. I think it tastes amazing even without maple syrup.

We also laid out some slices of baguette with raspberry jam and nutella. And we cut up some watermelon and papaya as well.

Croque Monsieurs: Instead of making full-blown croque monsieurs, we decided to do something simple so that kids (and adults) could easily munch on these. So we basically just made grilled ham and Swiss-cheese sandwiches. And topped a few with cherry tomatoes to go with the theme.

Cheese Board: This included some Camembert, herbed goat, bleu, and a sharp white cheddar, as well as a few red round Babybels for the babies. :) Plus crackers, apple slices, and grapes.

At the last minute, we thought it’d be fun to include red hard-boiled eggs, which are usually reserved for a baby’s one-month-old party according to Chinese tradition, but it fit our red balloon and brunch themes so well (not to mention we are also in China) that we just couldn’t help adding these on.

Birthday Cake: My personal philosophy is that if I’m going to eat cake, it should be chocolate cake. I’m not typically a huge sweets person, but for some reason or other, I found myself loving chocolate cake when I was pregnant. At the time, my husband and I agreed that it was nearly impossible to determine what was a true pregnancy craving, given that I am often prone to whims of odd appetites at the slightest suggestion anyway. But if we were to pinpoint a pregnancy craving, it would have to be chocolate cake. For all these reasons, I decided to make this chocolate cake, minus the peanut butter frosting and chocolate glaze (I’ve done the whole thing before, and it is very intense but very good), just in case any kids should have any nut allergies. We paired that with a chocolate cream cheese frosting (I just added 4 oz. of melted unsweetened chocolate to that recipe). Because I only had one cake pan, and it was bigger than what was called for, I ended up having to make three layers (that is, 3x the recipe) for the cake not to look odd. It was a little crazy. In the end, I don’t know if I would call my cake effort a success, but it turned out fine for our purposes. Becca has more experience with birthday cakes, so she did the messy frosting. And we went with 12 candles — one for each month we survived. :)

Desserts: I made some chewy chocolate chip cookies, and we also set out some Pepperidge Farm strawberry Verona cookies and chocolate mint thins.

Favors: Lastly, we found some cute little Bonne Maman jams at Paris Baguette, a chain here in Beijing, which we gave out as favors.

I love how it all turned out! I think we adults might have had even more fun than the kids. But the kids look cuter, obviously. :)

I’m so thankful that we were able to mark Elijah’s first birthday in a special way. This past year for us has really been full of challenges, changes, and big transitions. I have to confess, at times I found myself longing to get to the next stage of E’s development (head control! napping for more than 30 minutes! SLEEPING THROUGH THE NIGHT! — these last two did not happen until 7+ months). I wasn’t that familiar with the timeline for a baby’s development, and when I realized that for E to become a little more self-sufficient essentially meant for him to grow up, I really tried to savor each moment more. To be honest, I’ve been surprised to find myself more emotional over our little guy turning one than I expected. I think it may have something to do with how much he has changed just in the past few days. He suddenly can mimic things that we do and has picked up on a number of tricks we’d been trying to teach him for a while. We’ve been told from the very beginning that he has a lot of personality, and now we’re all the more delighted to see his personality grow. He’s really becoming a little person!

Here is our little E at 12 months, taken this morning. He can walk, blow kisses, wave bye-bye, and sometimes high-five. He eats everything I give him, including spinach, liver, and durian! (Really, sometimes he eats better than we do.) He has been to five countries and lived in two of them. And he speaks two languages: Baby and Monster.

Happy birthday, sweet Elijah! We love you!

 

Provence: Aix-en-Provence

I’ve always wanted to visit Aix-en-Provence, the quintessential Provençal town known for its sun-dappled streets, vibrant café life, old fountains, Roman architecture, and not least of all, being home to Cézanne. Because there wasn’t a direct train to the town from Montpellier, where I was studying back in the day, it always seemed more difficult than necessary to get to Aix, and so I never actually made it there. (There is now a direct TGV train from Paris.)

On our most recent trip, we wanted to spend our second week in France driving around Provence, and so we decided to base ourselves right in Aix…

We were in an apartment just off the Place des Prêcheurs, which is where the town’s main market sets up several times a week, so this made it perfect for getting to the market bright and early. (See more on the market here.)

In retrospect, I think it would’ve been more quiet and calming to situate ourselves deeper into the center of town — that is to say, farther from the Cours Mirabeau, the main thoroughfare downtown where many of the cafés are and which turned out to be a little more bustling than I expected. The town is small enough that it’s not that far of a walk to get to any of the sights, and really, everything is pretty quaint and beautiful in Aix’s centreville.

After a week of squeezing in many of our must-see, must-do, must-eat stops in Paris, we were really ready to slow down in Provence. We didn’t even go to many of the sights in town. Instead, we blended in by enjoying lazy mornings and afternoons reading, sipping coffee, and generally lounging around at cafés. I love all the little squares around town that make for such scenic coffee sipping and people watching. I kept joking that I wanted to spend a whole day taking leisurely, hours-long meals, from morning to night. That didn’t really happen, but wouldn’t it be great? :)

We took some long, ambling walks about town. Aix reminded me a lot of Montpellier. It’s got a sizable student population, but at the same time, is fairly small, very walkable, and full of quaint lanes and beautiful old buildings. It’s the perfect place to get lost in.

On one of my walks, I came upon this little macaron shop called Meresse and was very intrigued by some of the flavors displayed in the window (they had savory macarons involving things like smoked salmon, foie gras, truffle, trout roe, and onion confit). Unfortunately, it being Sunday, the shop was closed. :(

We also paid a visit to La Cure Gourmande, the kind of candy shop of every kid’s dream.

We mostly got foods from the markets and ate at home in Aix. We were eager to try some local Provençal dishes, but we had a little trouble finding them, or at least memorable versions of them. For those, we’d have to wait for Marseille and Nice…

For more posts on France, see…
Eating in Paris
Not Eating in Paris
The Bastille Quarter
Bistrot Paul Bert
Markets (Paris)
Oh, the Cheeses We Ate
Markets (Provence)
(La Vraie) Bouillabaisse in Marseille
Provençal Specialties in Nice

Not Eating in Paris

We did actually do things other than eat (and eat and eat and eat) in Paris. And there are photos to prove it. :)

We visited museums.

Like the Orsay, where apparently you are no longer allowed to take photos. (I thought I must’ve heard incorrectly when the guard warned me the first time, and the second time he really threatened me! So I went to a different floor…)

We returned to the beautiful Musée Rodin. I absolutely love the single-artist museums all over Europe, and I also have a fondness for sculpture, so the Musée Rodin is one of my very favorites. This museum also has special meaning to my husband and me because we came here together over 10 years ago. I actually wrote him an essay about it called “The Secret” (after one of Rodin’s pieces), which ended up being part of a reading we gave at our wedding.

The Musée de l’Orangerie was closed for renovation the entire year I was last in France, so we were very glad to finally see this for the first time. (B decided to create an impressionistic photo of the impressionist artwork. :P)

We didn’t go inside the Louvre this time (beyond the main lobby) but did walk around the outside…

We spent a day in Montmartre.

E took a couple rides on the carousel, we hiked up to Sacré Coeur, walked around Place du Tertre admiring the artists’ work (we found out artists actually have to apply to get a coveted spot at this square), and roamed up and down the hilly streets. We got a bit lost, so ended up not getting to Café des Deux Moulins (of Amélie fame) or the Moulin Rouge.

 

We went shopping.

I already mentioned Paris’s many food markets and shops and our love for Monoprix, which we visited in several cities to pick up groceries and other tidbits like breakfast pastries, kids’ clothing, stationery, and French pharmacy products (what can’t you find at Monoprix?). But we also ventured out to other places, like the flea market at St-Ouen de Clignancourt. I was also eager to finally check out Merci (pictured below), the popular Anthropologie-like store by the creator of Bonpoint. Everything in this shop is just exquisite, from the darling red bug in the courtyard to the bookstore cafe to the exposed wooden beams in the gorgeous loft space. And to top it off, the profits go to charities.

One of my francophile self’s greatest loves is French bookstores and stationery, so this was one of the things I was most looking forward to about being back. The French are known for doing everyday things with style, and stationery is one of those things. When I was a student in Montpellier, I spent many hours in the student bookstores looking at all the pens, notebooks, paper, and art supplies. I don’t know if this is true anymore or if it is true throughout France, but at the time (and this was in 2000-2001), all students at my university in Montpellier were required to turn in handwritten papers. For real! This was quite an adjustment for us American students. But my writerly self was rather charmed by the whole thing. :)

So naturally, one of my musts in Paris was stopping by Gilbert Joseph, the bookstore in the student neighborhood of St. Michel. I picked up a new Waterman fountain pen to replace my old one of 12 years (and I was pleased to find that it still costs only about $10). I also stocked up on Clairefontaine notebooks!! These are expensive to get in the U.S. and are hard to find, so I got myself quite a few in various sizes on this trip. I adore French notebooks and paper because they are made for fountain pen ink, and so they are of thicker and smoother quality than normal. The only thing I’m not fond of is French-ruled paper, so I usually get the gridded kind.

In spite of the perpetual rain, we did lots and lots of strolling through amazing parks and elegant, historic neighborhoods.

Like the Jardin des Tuileries…

… and one of my favorite areas, the ÃŽle Saint-Louis and Île de la Cité…

… and many other neighborhoods, including the Canal St. Martin, which I had never seen before.

We spent plenty of time on the Paris Metro…

… and one time even came across an orchestra playing at one of the stops.

We even attempted to take Parisian metro photobooth pics, inspired by Amélie. :)

And, of course, we saw the Eiffel Tower.

Ah, Paris.

As I mentioned before, there was a time when I had mixed feelings about this city. Of course, there is a huge difference between living in a place and visiting for a short time. So no doubt I had my Parisian rose-tinted glasses on this time ’round. Still, this trip reminded me why I love the French way of life so much: priorities, details, sheer joie de vivre. Paris is a grand city that somehow exudes intimacy at every turn in every corner. People care about things enough that a certain degree of panache is inherent in even the humblest of tasks and objects. (Remember that scene in Amelie where she offers change to a homeless person, and he declines, saying, I don’t work on Sundays?) This is the kind of place where, right in the midst of finals week one time, I found myself invited over for a homemade lunch at another student’s home. It’s the kind of place where the rockstars aren’t so much the athletes or the savvy businessmen or the technological geniuses, but the philosophers, the poets… even your local boulanger!

For all these reasons and more, I hope I’ll have the opportunity to live in this country again some day.

– – – – –

In preparing for our trip, I found myself stumbling into the great rabbit hole of Paris blogs and websites by expats of various origins. I am indebted to these wonderful sites for helping us plan our time there. (Warning: It is very hard to find your way out of Parisian food blogosphere, so click at your own risk! :)

… Just to name a few!

– – – – –

Update: The last photo of the Eiffel Tower reflections was a winner in the Inspired Art Challenge at Minted and is now available for order here. As the photographer, I do receive a small commission on orders of that print but otherwise am not affiliated with Minted.

For more posts on France, see…
Eating in Paris
The Bastille Quarter
Bistrot Paul Bert
Markets (Paris)
Oh, the Cheeses We Ate
Markets (Provence)
Aix-en-Provence
(La Vraie) Bouillabaisse in Marseille
Provençal Specialties in Nice

Eating in Paris

It’s been a while since we talked about France here. And I actually still have so much more to share. I hope you are not sick of hearing about our France trip yet. :)

So what more could we possibly have eaten in Paris in between Le Bistrot Paul Bert, the wonderful markets, the great little food shops around our apartment in the Bastille, and all the lovely cheeses we tried?

Well, there’s crêpes at la Crêperie Josselin, for one (67 rue du Montparnasse). This little restaurant is decorated in traditional Breton style — dim, dark wood, and small booths. And the staff is so friendly! The restaurant serves beautiful traditional Breton crêpes de sarrasin (also known as galettes de sarrasin) made of buckwheat. We ordered a small pitcher of delicious hard cider that you drink out of little bowls. Then I got a sausage and cheese crêpe, and B got one filled with goatcheese and honey.

A French person once told me that it is impossible to make excellent crêpes at home because you just don’t have the equipment for it. So I’m always appreciative of the perfectly crispy yet spongey, thin, pancake-like texture of a good French crêpe, and the crêpes de sarrasin are my favorite for their more hearty taste.

No trip to Paris is complete without a falafel sandwich from L’As du Falafel (34 Rue des Rosiers). It was fun even just waiting in line for one! (There are two lines — one for dining in and one for takeout, and the takeout line actually goes pretty quickly, especially with someone taking your order while you wait.) I loved their sign that said “Toujours imité, jamais egalé” (Always imitated, never equalled). :) I don’t think I’ve ever even had a falafel sandwich before, so I don’t have much by way of comparison, but the falafels themselves were indeed fluffy, with a nice and crispy exterior. And they were perfect with all the toppings, like pickled red cabbage, hummus, and harissa. I think it would’ve been best to get a bit of everything in one bite, but I ended up mostly eating things separately with a fork. Will have to work on that next time — as well as try some of their other offerings!

After our falafel sandwich, we walked over to Mariage Frères nearby to check out their famous teas (35 Rue du Bourg Tibourg and other locations). They have a little café in the back, but since we had baby E with us we figured sitting down for a leisurely tea and snacks was not going to be very leisurely. :) So instead I picked up some French Blue Earl Gray to bring home. It is so aromatic! I would love to try cooking or baking with it, like infusing it into some whipped cream or using it to flavor pastries. I have since also found a few Mariage Frerès teas at Williams-Sonoma.

The next subject is a bit of a touchy one: macarons. Before we dive into this, let me start by saying that I am far from a macaron connoisseur. Because, well, to be a connoisseur I would first have to love them. So, yes, I confess that, as many times as I have tried to understand and embrace the macaron craze, I’m afraid I still don’t really get it. To me, they kind of taste like… those Asian wafer cookies from my childhood. (My deepest apologies if I have offended anyone). One of my hopes for Paris was to hit up the most popular macaron shops, thinking surely my deficit of taste here was only because I had not tried a real macaron…

First, we stopped by the famous Pierre Hermé. This place was not what I had anticipated! I was expecting a cute little pâtisserie, and had I not already heard of the Pierre Hermé macarons, I would’ve taken this place for a perfume or jewelry shop. That’s how seriously they take their pastries here. Just look at this store front with window displays of abstract art…

It was so intimidating being inside. And of course no pictures were allowed (but of course I snuck one anyway). There was this noticeable hush over the entire place, signaling that we were in the presence of greatness. It was as though pastry chefs were in the back, carefully piecing these artful pastries together, and if anyone did any more than tiptoe or speak above a whisper, everything would be ruined. (If you’ve ever seen the documentary Kings of Pastry, you’ll know what I mean!) Once I bit into one of their macarons, though, I started to understand what all the fuss was about. But I am getting ahead of myself here…

Before we tasted anything, we also stopped by Ladurée, the famous pastry shop and tea house that invented the modern Parisian macaron. This place was closer to what I had imagined a macaron shop being — opulent, frilly, fancy tea room of the kind that little and big girls alike would want to dress up and have tea at. Just the look of the pretty shop actually made us want to stay and do just that (well, except that I was the only girl :), but we decided it was perhaps best to head home to put E to bed. So we picked up some macarons and headed back to the apartment.

After E’s bedtime ritual and after we had dinner ourselves, it was time to break out the macarons.

I’m afraid I no longer remember all the flavors we tried. But I do remember what I thought.

Now, there is a lot of contention over who makes the better macaron, Pierre Hermé or Ladurée. So, just remember that I am no macaron connoisseur… but… I really thought Pierre Hermé’s were decidedly more complex and refined. The Ladurée macarons were delicious, and I think their shop is a lot more fun. When it comes down to taste, though, the Ladurée macarons may have filled my mouth with their lovely flavors, but the Pierre Hermé macarons held amazing aromas that slowly wafted up through my nose and filled my entire head. (This makes perfect sense when you consider that flavor is really connected to your olfactory sense. More on the science of taste here). And that was when I understood why the Pierre Hermé shop looked more like a perfume store. Have you ever read the book or seen the movie Perfume? I can just imagine the Pierre Hermé pastry chefs experimenting with the flavors and combinations in the back (though, of course, in less morbid fashion than the Perfume story). The other thing was that the Ladurée macarons were single flavored, while the Pierre Hermé ones had various combinations, so there were layers of flavors in your mouth, with the aromas slowly evolving as they lingered in your olfactory passages. They really have elevated the macaron to an art form.

I wouldn’t say that I am now a macaron convert. I would love to have the Pierre Hermé flavor effect applied to, say, crème brûlée, or ice cream, or cupcake, or some other dessert. But I do think I can better understand the obsession with these dainty delicacies now, and I still would love to go back to Paris and have tea and macarons (and other desserts) at the beautiful Ladurée.

Have you had Pierre Hermé or Ladurée macarons? What did you think? What’s your favorite macaron place Stateside? I am always in awe of the beautiful macarons made by Ravenous Couple and all the interesting Asianinspired flavors they post on their Instagram. :) If I were in town I would request a custom order from them for a certain upcoming celebration (more on that when the time comes :).

Lastly, we had a lot of other foods in Paris that were not tied to a particular standout place.

Like moules et frites… :)

… crème brûlée… and a few cafe crèmes…

… escargots…

… duck confit…

… and lots of steak tartare.

Lest you think all we did in Paris was eat, I have one more post coming up for you on the City of Lights, as well as a few from Provence. Stay tuned!

For more posts on France, see…
The Bastille Quarter
Bistrot Paul Bert
Markets (Paris)
Oh, the Cheeses We Ate
Not Eating in Paris
Markets (Provence)
Aix-en-Provence
(La Vraie) Bouillabaisse in Marseille
Provençal Specialties in Nice